36 Hours in Budapest
Evan Rail
August 12, 2007.
LIKE the blue Danube River that separates Castle Hill in Buda from the flâneur-worthy boulevards of Pest, the Hungarian capital of Budapest has a sophisticated and hedonistic side. Old World grandeur, stunning architecture and a rich cultural heritage give Budapest its undeniably noble air. But the city also offers plenty of opportunities to cut loose, relax and overindulge on everything from opera and wine to nightlife and cool art. What's more, few of these luxuries are prohibitively expensive. There are ornate public bathhouses, trendy design shops with flea-market prices and beautiful museums that don't cost a cent. So whatever side you choose, let your curiosity be your guide.
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8 p.m.
8) CLOSED-CIRCUIT DINING
For a low-key trattoria with a high-tech twist, head to Csalogany 26 (Csalogany 26, 36-1-201-7892; www.csalogany26.hu). The kitchen blends Hungarian and Continental cuisines, which you can see being prepared on a closed-circuit flat-screen monitor in the dining room. It may seem gimmicky though the food is anything but. Recent offerings included a cooling tomato gazpacho topped with crunchy roast walnuts (700 forints), and a crisp and tender breast of guinea hen with fresh spinach (2,400 forints). The wine list has excellent Hungarian varietals, including a kadarka (330 forints a glass). Just a few months old, Csalogany 26 has already vaulted to the top of the Budapest food blog, Chew.hu.
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